A Special Place in Northwest Spain
Santiago de Compostela is the capital of the northwest region of Spain known as Galicia. It is also the pinnacle of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route also known as the Way of Saint James. The main cathedral, consecrated in 1211, is the burial place of Saint James, the apostle.
In the many videos I reviewed when planning for this trip, I learned of the Parador Hotel in the same square as the beautiful Saint James Cathedral. I knew this was the hotel I wanted to stay at. This hotel was more than amazing with a rich history and beautiful architecture.
The Parador is also known as the Hotel de los Reyes Catolicos. Originally, it was built as a hospital to aid the many pilgrims who traveled the Way of Saint James. In the early days, the difficult terrain of the different routes of Saint James were coupled with bandits, attacks by wild animals, or bloody altercations with other travelers. The hospital was available to cure the wounds of the pilgrims and provide rest and food. Today, the hotel keeps alive the tradition of welcoming pilgrims. The first ten pilgrims each day to present the “Compostela” certificate receive breakfast, lunch, and dinner for three days at the hotel.
The Catholic monarchs in 1486 decided to build the hospital for the pilgrims. The royal architect was Enrique Egas. He completed the structure between 1501 and 1511.
The hospital was built with four cloisters, each named for the writers of the four gospels – Saint Matthew, Saint Mark, Saint Luke, Saint John. The building was used as a hospital until the mid-20th century. In 1953, a new building was built to accommodate the hospital in a different location. The original building was transformed into the Hotel de los Reyes Catolicos.
From the moment you enter the lobby of the hotel, you are faced with beautiful Spanish architecture. When I checked in to the hotel, the receptionist provided two maps. One was for the town of Santiago and the other for the hotel grounds.
My second day at the hotel began with exploring the hotel and all its many features. Signs were clearly mounted on the walls that corresponded to the map provided. I began the exploration in the hotel lobby.
One of the first places I found was the Royal Chapel. It looked like it was under construction but still quite beautiful.
From the chapel, I was led to the Saint Luke courtyard. Each courtyard had a beautiful fountain in the center and a covered walkway along the perimeter.
The Bethlehem Staircase was another interesting find. This staircase was created to connect each of the floors. Today, in addition to the stairs there are elevators throughout the hotel.
The view of the courtyard from the top floor was stunning.
Throughout the hotel on each floor were comfortable seats for reading and relaxing along with beautiful furniture pieces.
Since this was originally a hospital, one of the features was an apothecary garden which provided the plants necessary to produce medicines. Part of the hospital constitution in 1524 stated that a gardener would be on staff and would grow the plants ordered by the apothecary who is known today as a pharmacist. The garden today does not exist, but the history is clearly displayed on a plaque in the Saint Luke courtyard.
Also along the perimeter of the Saint Luke courtyard were the bedrooms of the chaplains for the hospital. During the late 1700s, there were 8-10 chaplains serving sixty patients. The chaplains spoke a variety of languages in order to minister to the sick from other countries. In addition to chaplains, the hospital staff consisted of cooks, gardeners, silversmiths, jewelers, welders, blacksmiths, seamstresses, and many other tradesmen. Until 1834, the main source of income for the hospital was the Vow of Santiago. This vow consisted of a payment of a grain tax by each farmer under the Crown of Castile.
Another interesting find was the Jerusalem cross which has been the emblem of the Royal Hospital since its founding. The cross is part of the building’s construction and can be found throughout the courtyards.
The hospital also contained an orphanage. Until 1846, each year the hospital took in hundreds of children abandoned by their parents. One of the display plaques described a window with a bell and a revolving compartment similar to what was found in cloistered convents. A person would ring the bell and then wait to hear “Ave Maria, gratia plena.” Upon hearing these words, the adult would place the newborn in the revolving compartment. Many of these children, as noted in the display plaque, did not survive beyond the age of two.
We have come a long way not only in the care of our children, but also in medical practices. In the Saint John courtyard, this hospital once contained a leech tank. These specimens were used for centuries in medicine to bleed the sick and reduce bruising.
The architectural talent of Enrique Egas can be seen throughout the hotel.
The hotel had a beautiful living room area off the lobby where people gathered later in the day to read and relax.
It also had a beautiful bar and two restaurants located on the lower floor.
I truly enjoyed the self-guided tour of this beautiful hotel. However, that is not why I came to Santiago. The Cathedral of Saint James, located in the same square as my hotel, was my next adventure.
Stay tuned for my next blog – the best is yet to come!
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